A shoe as a sculptural and architecturally constructed form was the guiding idea in creating this shoe collection. These shoes were made as a concept, as handmade unique sculptures. Inspiration was found in works of artist Naum Gabo and architect Santiago Calatrava. Strong stress is on heels, since whole shoe form is determinated by them; they are like “supporting poles”, constructive elements which carry the whole creative process. Design is based on the exploration of new high heel shapes, resulting in numerous variations of their basic form. Each model is an experiment with the high heel.
Bernard Figueroa once said: “There is so much space between a woman’s heel and the floor that one can use”, and the whole concept is focused on using this space as much as possible.
Idea was to create a form which is expressive, complex and in a way unexpected, structural and constructed in detail – a shoe, which will primarily be of artistic significance, while its function will be secondary.
White and decoration/ornament free, these shoes are focused on the very form, which is, so to say, their only decorative element. The form determines ornamentality.
Morphology of these shoes, especially the heels, is unexpected, unique and dynamic, constructed by the principle of rotation and multiplication of basic forms, creating a new design in which forms merge, permeate and interlace with one another, in complex variations. The heel shapes are created by multiplying, intercepting and rotating 2D surfaces in order to achieve a 3D figure.
The entire collection is, in a way, a homage to the sculptor and the architect whose inspiring forms had a strong impact on entire creative result of the collection.
Collection contains ten prototypes, which can be divided into three groups. The first group was inspired by Naum Gabo’s sculptures, second by Calatrava’a architecture, while the third is a fusion of the first two. When it comes to shape, the focus is on sharp geometrical lines, form lightness and soft, organic shapes.
The first group – linear constructions – is inspired by Naum Gabo and they represent the idea of levity, transparency and complex structure.
Architectural shoe – the second group refers to the constructions and architecture of Santiago Calatrava with an accent on detail. These high heels are sculptural figures which dominate and determine the form of a shoe.
The final group of the collection – wings/variations – are steered around the tendency for natural, organic shapes, compact forms and distinct sculptural and architectural details. The whole concept is based on monocoque form.